Short answer: You are running late, the key slides into the ignition, and then it simply will not rotate. Before you assume the worst about your car, know that most 'stuck ignition' calls trace back to a handful of predictable causes, several of which you can rule out in your own driveway in under a minute.
You are running late, the key slides into the ignition, and then it simply will not rotate. Before you assume the worst about your car, know that most 'stuck ignition' calls trace back to a handful of predictable causes, several of which you can rule out in your own driveway in under a minute.
The most common reason a key won't turn has nothing to do with the ignition at all: it is the steering wheel lock. When you park and the wheel rotates slightly against a curb or a turned tire, a locking pin binds the column and freezes the key with it. The fix is gentle and free. Apply light, steady pressure on the key in the turning direction while rocking the steering wheel left and right, and the moment the pin relieves, the key turns. Second, check whether you are using a worn copy instead of your original key; a fresh original often turns instantly where a rounded-off duplicate won't. Third, on push-to-start vehicles, a 'key not detected' situation is usually just a dead fob battery, and holding the fob physically against the start button or steering column lets many cars read it long enough to start. If none of that frees it, the problem is mechanical or electronic and worth a pro's eyes.
When the wheel-jiggle trick doesn't work, the culprit is usually one of three things. The first is a worn ignition cylinder: the tiny wafers inside wear over tens of thousands of turns until the key can no longer align them, and these often fail gradually, getting harder to turn over weeks before they stop entirely. The second is a worn or damaged key whose cuts no longer match the wafers precisely, which is why a brand-new key cut to the vehicle's original code can revive a 'dead' ignition. The third, on newer cars, is the transponder and immobilizer system: if the chip in the key head isn't recognized, some vehicles physically or electronically block the start. A dashboard security or key-shaped warning light is a strong hint you are in transponder territory rather than a simple mechanical jam. Debris in the keyway and a bent key round out the list of usual suspects.
A mobile automotive locksmith diagnoses in order from cheapest fix to most involved. They will test a freshly cut key first, because if a new original-code key turns smoothly, you have avoided replacing the cylinder entirely. If the cylinder itself is worn or seized, they can often extract and rebuild or replace it on site and re-pin it to your existing key so you don't carry two different keys. For transponder and immobilizer faults, they use programming equipment to pair a new chipped key or fob to your car's computer, something most hardware stores cannot do. Costs swing widely by vehicle: a basic key cut and mechanical fix is modest, while a programmed transponder key or a proximity fob for a late-model car can run into the low or mid hundreds because of the blank and programming involved. Ask up front whether your vehicle needs a chipped key so the quote reflects reality, and confirm the locksmith can program your make before they roll out.
The most common reason a key won't turn has nothing to do with the ignition at all: it is the steering wheel lock. When you park and the wheel rotates slightly against a curb or a turned tire, a locking pin binds the column and freezes the key with it. The fix is gentle and free. Apply light, steady pressure on the key in the turning direction while rocking the steering wheel left and right, and the moment the pin relieves, the key turns. Second, check whether you are using a worn copy instead of your original key; a fresh original often turns instantly where a rounded-off duplicate won't. Third, on push-to-start vehicles, a 'key not detected' situation is usually just a dead fob battery, and holding the fob physically against the start button or steering column lets many cars read it long enough to start. If none of that frees it, the problem is mechanical or electronic and worth a pro's eyes.
When the wheel-jiggle trick doesn't work, the culprit is usually one of three things. The first is a worn ignition cylinder: the tiny wafers inside wear over tens of thousands of turns until the key can no longer align them, and these often fail gradually, getting harder to turn over weeks before they stop entirely. The second is a worn or damaged key whose cuts no longer match the wafers precisely, which is why a brand-new key cut to the vehicle's original code can revive a 'dead' ignition. The third, on newer cars, is the transponder and immobilizer system: if the chip in the key head isn't recognized, some vehicles physically or electronically block the start. A dashboard security or key-shaped warning light is a strong hint you are in transponder territory rather than a simple mechanical jam. Debris in the keyway and a bent key round out the list of usual suspects.
A mobile automotive locksmith diagnoses in order from cheapest fix to most involved. They will test a freshly cut key first, because if a new original-code key turns smoothly, you have avoided replacing the cylinder entirely. If the cylinder itself is worn or seized, they can often extract and rebuild or replace it on site and re-pin it to your existing key so you don't carry two different keys. For transponder and immobilizer faults, they use programming equipment to pair a new chipped key or fob to your car's computer, something most hardware stores cannot do. Costs swing widely by vehicle: a basic key cut and mechanical fix is modest, while a programmed transponder key or a proximity fob for a late-model car can run into the low or mid hundreds because of the blank and programming involved. Ask up front whether your vehicle needs a chipped key so the quote reflects reality, and confirm the locksmith can program your make before they roll out.
Call (650) 419-3433 and describe the situation, your exact location, and what you need. Timing is confirmed on that call rather than promised in advance.
Call for help: (650) 419-3433 — a straight answer and an honest estimate before any work begins.